This superb new bistro run by chef Olympe Versini pulls an interesting crowd with her outstanding, changing 210F menu. Excellent bread and a fine bottle of 1998 St-Joseph got a recent meal here off to a fine start, and the pleasure grew with the arrival of excellent starters – a poached egg on a chestnut-flour galette and a casserole of autumn fruits and vegetables braised in luscious veal stock. Main courses of guinea hen with a large ravioli stuffed with wild mushrooms, and pork fillet with homemade sauerkraut in a sublime sauce were earthy but elegant. Desserts were outstanding, too. One of the best bistros in Paris.
