Archive for June, 2008

The Maori Way

Depending on your perspective, the families that run these marae are either repatriating or squatting. In the mid-1980s, when proposed boundaries for Whanganui National Park encroached on native land, the Maori community established the marae as Schools of Indigenous Culture, “to bring Western conservation practices up to Maori standards.” After all, who had managed the land well enough over many generations to make it conservation-worthy today? The current situation is a skewed stalemate: If the DOC tries to cast out the families for building marae on official national park lands, it would give rise to a court case that the Maori families are likely to win, given that the New Zealand government originally seized the riverbanks for a turn-of-the-century railroad that was never built. Thus, the DOC has so far adopted a policy of tolerant inaction; it even devotes a section to Tieke Marae in its official park brochure.

Perhaps because this protest is so passive and productive, the marae receive almost no media attention, unlike noisy land controversies elsewhere in the country. The DOC has recently expressed a desire for the marae to steal some limelight as more up-market tourist attractions, but the families’ vision is to see the river live as simply as it did in times past not just with lush flora and rolling rapids, but with villages dotting the high banks, offering community cohesion for local Maori and gracious way-stations for any passing traveler.

The ancient churches and monasteries of Egypt’s Christian past

Visitors to Egypt too often come only for the splendors of the pharaohs and the monuments of Islam ? but one of the country’s most fascinating aspects is its Christian heritage. Before the rise of Islam, Egypt was Christian province of the Byzantine Empire, and even earlier had proved to be one of the most fertile grounds for Christianity during the perioed of Roman rule; even after the coming of the Prophet, a substantial Christian minority remained in Egypt and it still exists today.

Most Egyptian Christians belong to the Coptic, or Monophysite, Church, a denomination dating back to the 4th century; they often tattoo their hands with a small cross to show their faith. Fascinatingly, Coptic liturgy is still written in the Coptic language ? a direct descendent of the language spoken by the Pharoahs and unrelated to the Arabic used in modern Egypt. Thanks to the tolerance of later Muslim rulers of Egypt, there are still many ancient Coptic churches in existence, and the warm and friendly Coptic community welcomes foreigners who wish to explore their churches and monasteries and learn more about their unique culture.

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Bilbao

Graced with the marvelous new Guggenheim Museum, this city of one million is finally overcoming its reputation as a bourgeois, business-minded industrial center. The economic engine of the Basque country, Bilbao has been making people wealthy since the 16th century, when its shipbuilding industries and coastal location made it a key trade link between Castile and Flanders. The city has bought respectability by investing heavily in the arts and its own infrastructure. Economic booms in the 19th century bestowed wide boulevards lined by ornate buildings; 20th-century success has showered the city with a new subway system, an overhauled international airport, a new bridge, and a stylish riverwalk project, all executed by renowned international architects. However, it is the Guggenheim that has fueled Bilbao’s rise to international prominence.

Frank O. Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum Bilbao can only be described as breathtaking. Lauded in the international press with every superlative imaginable, it has catapulted Bilbao straight into cultural stardom. The US$100 million building, with its undulating curves and multiple levels, resembles a scaly fish or a ship about to set sail on the river beside it. The amazingly light and airy interior features a towering atrium and a series of non-traditional exhibition spaces, including a gargantuan 130m by 30m hall. The museum currently hosts rotating exhibits drawn from the Guggenheim Foundation’s collection but will gradually acquire its own international sampling of 20th-century works.

Hostels in Lagos

The eurorailer in everyone will feel right at home at Lagos. Hosteling International affiliate, Pousada da Juventude de Lagos. Fellow backpackers and amenities overflow in what could very well be one of Europe’s best hostels. Gay travelers should check out Residencial Gil Vicente, which bills itself as a gay guesthouse, though it welcomes anyone. Families and budget travelers who may not be into the backpacker scene will appreciate the both the ambiance and price of Residencial Rubi Mar.

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